Monday, January 26, 2015

Unicron, Herald of the Sentinels Eternal

Ages back I was in my then-local hobby shop when I saw a very well sculpted unicorn miniature from Reaper. It was part of their new Bones line, and thus was extremely well priced. So I picked it up, with one simple plan: to use it to make the stupidest Space Marine ever. The project snowballed and eventually I ended up with this guy.


I tried to make him as over-the-top as possible, giving him massive shoulder-pads, a customised helmet, oversized light-up "crystal" sword, light-up scenic base, little belt gubbins, a banner... and a stupid name. Hey, first thing that comes to my head, that's the rule.


I had been working on light-up bases at the time and this model's larger base gave me an opportunity to experiment. As I have mentioned in the past, he was in fact my first true success, predating my light-up Cortana, I just put off painting him because I didn't have confidence in my ability to paint a horse. Plus, you know, I've been busy.


There was a lot of work involved in this model. I started by creating a flat surface inside the base using milliput, to make it easier to try to build a battery holder into. I fabricated a battery holding system from plasticard and metals bits from various button battery holders that I cut and bent into the desired shape. Before I could solder everything together I had to figure out where everything was going to go.


The biggest limitation would be the wires going to up the Space Marine. The unicorn is made of a rather soft and rubbery plastic, so I decided to reinforce it's legs with pins that would serve double duty by carrying the current. So I carefully drilled a couple of very small holes up through it's legs. I had to drill a second pair of holes that intersected the first in order to create a channel for wires to get to the "saddle" area where they could pass up to the Marine's torso.


I then soldered a pair of wires to some 0.8mm tailoring pins (which are the strongest pins I have, especially relative to their diameter) and smoothed the join with sandpaper so I could push them up the legs, and carefully worked them into place.


I then drilled holes in the clear resin base and plastic base for the pins. Finally I filled the extra holes in the body and smoothed over them, taking the opportunity to do some clean up of mold lines and the like (which I found were hard to fully get rid of without some liquid greenstuff and sandpaper).

The resin base was not as quite as blue as I had expected.

The top of the base was painted and holes were drilled for the LEDs, then everything was soldered up, glued down, and covered with milliput. I used white LEDs for the base and blue for the sword, although I don't think it made much difference in the end.


Probably the hardest part of the build was the sword. I used a blue LED that's roughly 1mm by 1.5mm, and let me tell you, those can be tricky to solder. I generally destroy two LEDs for every one that I get wired up and glued in place. To give you an idea of what I'm talking about, here's a picture of the wired LED (bottom right), and unwired LED (center), a 1mm drill bit (top left), the wires I was using (middle left), the soldering iron (top right), and the solder (bottom left). So yeah, tricky work. I eventually hit on the idea of holding the LED with a pin vice while working, which helped a lot.


I used a Black Templar sword arm with the iconography sanded off the hilt. I cut out the sword and drilled into the hand, then joined that hole with one drilled in from the shoulder. Despite how tiny the LED was, I still had trouble fitting it in the sword hilt, and ended up doing enough damage to need greenstuff repair work later. Part of the problem is that the wires I was using were kinda stiff, and hard to position the way I wanted. The sword blade was made from a tooth from a clear plastic comb. Unfortunately as I couldn't sit the LED as deeply as I wanted there wasn't going to be enough material to support the blade, so I had to attach it with two .6mm pins drilled through the sides, which ruin the look a little. Still, when glued up and plugged in it looked very impressive.


Connecting the arm to the body was trickier than I'd expected, and I made things worse for myself by being stupid and cutting out plastic that I should have used for support, but it came together in the end.


In addition to the electrical bits, there was some other work needed. The icon on top of the banner was made from two Black Templars vehicle decoration bits that I glued and blended together. I think the banner was another Black Templars bit. The shoulder pads and torso were Sanguinary Guard bits. The left arm was actually from a Warrior of Chaos that was in the right pose and had the kind of baroque styling that I was after. A lot of iconography had to be sanded off and/or covered up with the hourglass and shield icons of my custom chapter. I added some decoration in the form of symbols on his knees and random bits chained to his belt. I also had to fix the unicorn's feet where I had screwed up when cutting it off it's base, and also the mane where I'd cut it to make room for the rider. Of course I had to repose the legs to make them look halfway decent.


After all that I decided that I couldn't stand how bent the Unicorn's horn was after all. It had resisted all efforts to straighten using hot water, so in the end I cut it off, drilled a hole through the center (while carefully holding it in alignment) and inserted a 0.6mm tailoring pin to keep it straight, then glued it back on. I also took the opportunity to fix a problem area on the horn while merging the two back together.


Finished and primed, it looked pretty good. I covered the sword and base with PVA before priming, but in this picture I'd removed it from the sword:


And there it sat for something close to a year before I finally got it painted. Eventually I picked up an identical unicorn model to test painting techniques with, and finally decided upon a dry-brushed colour scheme that I decided looked good enough. I was originally hoping to use Quickshade, but I had my heart set on a white unicorn and I didn't want to introduce brown tones, and I couldn't get it to look good using the black quickshade, and I quickly gave up on the idea of proper blending (that requires actual skill), so drybrushing it was.

There was no question that the Marine's armour had to be gold. Anything less would just be silly. I picked silver for the decoration because, well, I couldn't think of anything better. I decided to use a purple wash to shade them both to try to tie them together and match the cooler tones I was trying to use (turns out using purple to shade gold can give it a really rich colour, it just didn't quite work out for me here). I'm not really happy with how the armour turned out; it just doesn't look as bright as I'd expected it to. Oh well.

I decided early on that the unicorn's hair had to be MADE OF FIRE. And of course a unicorn with FIRE FOR HAIR would obviously have a golden horn and hooves. Obviously. This was the trickiest part of the paint job, and while I think it looks pleasing overall, it's not as dramatic as I would have liked since the "hottest" parts of the fire are not noticeably brighter than the rest of the unicorn. Still I think it looks nice enough.



Purity seals were done with my standard recipe of bleached bone with white edge-highlights and brown lettering washed with Gryphone Sepia. I didn't give the red seals the usual final orange highlight as I didn't want them to be too bright. I went for a marble effect for the "parchment"on the standard. I settled on purple as the last colour, which I used for the banner and the barely-visible gems on the chest. The base was washed with watered-down Asurmen Blue then drybrushed white to try to give it more of an ice look, and also to try to better disperse the light from the LEDs and make it look slightly less like two spotlights.


I wanted to try to work rainbows into the model somehow, just to make it more ridiculous, but couldn't think of a good way to do it. I considered trying to do something on the flag, but couldn't figure out how to make it look good (and I was getting sick of the project), so I just went for a golden Sentinels Eternal logo instead, which I drew on using a metallic gold ballpoint pen. Saves a lot of effort for this kinda thing. I found it much easier to get a bright gold with it, so I used it for some highlights too. Next time I work with gold I think I'll do more edge highlighting with it.

The teeth were based with bleached bone, and the tongue with a mix of Fulgrim Pink and Elf Flesh, then both were washed with... either Ogryn Flesh or Gryphon Sepia, I forget. The sword was glazed blue over the varnish (to serve as a primer) then varnished again. A little more gloss varnish was used for the gems and mouth. I originally planned to give him an overly-long windswept cloak. Because, you know, MORE RIDICULOUS! But I couldn't seem to make it look good, so in the end I left it out. I suppose I could always add one later, but that's highly unlikely as I'm just glad to be done with him.



Overall I think he looks pretty good, though there's elements that didn't work out as I had hoped. There's a few things I might do differently if I were to do it over; I would try to use smaller wires to seat the LED lower in the hand, make the sword blade smaller and give it a longer handle, try to get a brighter gold on the armour, and perhaps use darker greys for the shadows on the unicorn. Also, I was thinking of painting the hair as fire, but in ALL THE COLOURS OF THE RAINBOW! I'm not sure I could pull it off with my current level of skill (and selection of paints), but I think it could look pretty cool with a fiery transition through the spectrum along the mane (as in, red near the head transitioning through the colours to purple at the shoulders).

The thing that's confusing me a little right now is that the LEDs seem much brighter in the earlier photos than in the finished article. This is probably because of the washes and glazes, though I'm hoping that it will look better with a fresh battery. Next up: a handful of smaller and less complex models.

Wednesday, December 31, 2014

Goodbye 2014...

It's a couple hours from midnight and it's finally starting to sink in that another year is about to die... I mean... "pass". I'm strangely numb to the process; getting old I guess, and lately years have started to zoom by so quickly that they barely seem to register. Le sigh. Oh well, guess it's time for some hastily thought up new years resolutions.

1. Watch More Anime
An easy one to start with. Over the past few years I've been watching less anime and playing less videogames; I've been too busy with other things (coughwarhammermachinecough). But there's some anime queued up that I've wanted to watch for ages, so I'm going to try to make it happen. Playing more videogames on other hand might be a little too ambitious right now.


2. Exercise More Regularly
So for a few years now I've started every year with a half-hearted (and severly cliched) "get back in shape" resolution. Problem is I was never really in shape to begin with. So this time I'm breaking it down a bit more: the idea is simply to do some measure of exercise regularly, even if it's just 5 seconds of stretches. Hopefully when it's a solidly ingrained routine I can slowly start to try to make it useful somehow. This is especially important as I've been having back problems (I'm perpetually hunched over keyboards and painting tables these days; funny to think that anime is probably better for my back than Warmachine) so I need to strengthen my core.


3. Paint More Minis
Despite putting the lion's share of my free time into Warmachine this past year, I've only managed to paint a total of 4 models (I'm not counting the extra Warjack arms or four half-hour paintjobs I did for the benefit of some very young family members, but even so). Shocking really. There are legitimate reasons for this, but one of the big contributing factors is G.A.D.D.: Gamer Attention Deficit Disorder.

I have planned and even half-finished conversions that I came up with or even started two or even three or more years ago, just sitting around in various boxes waiting for the day I either finish them, throw them away, or die of old age. I actually have dozens of primed models waiting to be painted, some of which are conversions that I was very excited about at the time and still am, on occasion. But the reality is that I come up with new ideas and fall in love with new models at a MUCH faster pace than I paint.

So this year I will try not to jump from project to project without finishing, but restrict myself to a more limited set of works in progress and follow through until I finish. And I'll try to pull off quick paintjobs on large units, even if I have to resist the urge to try fancy tricks and they end up a little boring.


4. Post More Reviews
Yeah, I have like twenty half-written reviews sitting around waiting to be posted, some are close to two years old. Reviewer Attention Deficit Disorder? Or just a lack of time? To be honest I kinda get stuck trying to fit in everything I want to say (which is pretty much every goddamned details I can possibly think of, unfortunately) in a way that flows well, and end up putting half-finished reviews aside then watching or playing something new and forgetting about the old one.

Hmm, I like the sound of being R.A.D.D. more than being G.A.D.D.


5. Stick To A Routine
I have trouble sticking to good daily routine. This is nothing new, and this isn't my first attempt to do something about it. Well, if at first you don't succeed, try again, right? Or possibly re-evaluate and try something new? Meh, I think I'm getting better anyway, so I'm going to keep trying.


6. Be More Responsible With Money
So I guess I probably shouldn't be starting two new Warmachine armies and a Horde anytime soon then? And Infinity is probably off the table for a little while longer? Eh, we'll see.



Well, that's all that comes to mind. Contrary to my earlier "hastily thought up" comment, none of these are new ideas, just a re-affirmation of things that I've been trying to hold myself to for a while now (well, except for the anime one maybe). The new year is simply a good time to renew my efforts. Does that make these resolutions unambitious, focused and realistic, or overly optimistic? Honestly I can't tell anymore.

Wednesday, December 17, 2014

They forced my hand...

So I've posted before about my illuminated models. The thing is I've actually had a few models ready (or close to ready) for painting for a good long while, but for various reasons (mainly life and the desire to build up my Khador army) I've neglected them. However, now that PoweredPlay Gaming have successfully launched a Kickstarter for powered bases, the results of all my hard work will soon be somewhat obsolete. This has spurred me to refocus my efforts on finishing my lit models. To be honest, it would be nice to get photos of them out before the "market gets flooded", as it where. Therefore, I will be doing something today that I normally don't do: post pictures of unfinished models. I sincerely hope that these will all be painted soon.

To infinity, and beyond!

I originally planned this guy as a joke, but I got caught up trying to make him as ridiculous as possible and ended up successfully adding LEDs to the base and sword. He was actually the first of my current style of battery holding base. In fact he predated my Cortana - it was the lessons I learned on him that let me successfully fit all the components in her base.
A look at the base. The 50mm PP bases are nice and roomy underneath.

The problem with him is... I don't know how to paint horses. So, since I had finished Cortana - who was more technically impressive and therefore kinda made him obsolete - I put him on hold until I could get some more practice in on painting animals. And then I ended up putting all my time into other models and Warmachine.

The next model that I managed to finish was quite an ordeal. This was my first good 25mm base, and it was not easy to make.
There's a lot more custom work in this guy than you might realise.
And it was all totally worth it!

I cannot tell you how much work this model was or how many times I had to go back and add something I had forgotten or fix something after it broke - I've already written about how his spear broke after he was done, but I didn't mention before how the switch turned out to be broken after I had epoxied it in to the base, and I had to carefully carve it out and replace it (NOT and easy task at all!). Anyway, I finally managed to replace his spear tip. I used a lighter piece of plastic this time, as I found that this way it looks more like the spear itself is glowing rather than being lit from the base. I will probably darken it with glazes after painting though, as right now it looks too light for my tastes when not lit.

I had a lot more trouble than I expected replacing the spear tip.
Having said that, I actually think it looks better when lit now.
A look at the base - the smallest "nice" base I've managed yet.

Even though he was now finished, I still couldn't paint him. Why? Because I didn't have any primer. There is no spray primer around here. I have some GW brush-on primer but it doesn't work very well - I don't know if there's something wrong with it or it's settled out and won't mix back properly or something, but it's basically completely unusable. I ordered some spray primer online around four months ago (perhaps even earlier), but because it has to be sent by surface mail it took forever - I only just received it less than a week ago. In the meantime I worked on some other designs.

One thing I noticed with the base under the unicorn was that attaching LEDs to the bottom of the clear resin just created a spotlight-like effect rather than lighting up the whole thing. So my next move was to try to solve that. My first experiment was to put some distance between the LED and the bottom of the base, and put a little paint on the bottom to help diffuse the light. The resulting base looked better, but still not perfect.
I mounted a larger LED in an enclosure...
... to try to suspend the LED away from the resin base insert.
Better, but still looks like a single spotlight underneath the base.
Strakhov's pose (and status) made him the most suitable model for the base.

After that I hit on the idea of pointing the LED away from the base and reflecting the light upwards by creating a sort of diffusion chamber. While not as bright perhaps, it looks much more like a solid area of the base is glowing. I also discovered that the piece of metal I was using to hold the battery in was too weak, and by switching to a stronger component I had I was able to make the base more reliable, so that solved one of the final big problems I was having. Just wish I'd figured that out a couple of models ago... ah well, hindsight and all that.

The desired part of the base was brushed with PVA before priming.
With the PVA removed the glow comes through nicely.
It may not be obvious in this photo, but the light here is much more diffuse and "glowy".

The problem is that you can't light up the whole base since there isn't enough room underneath, which fortunately is perfect for this swamp base.

You can see the LED pointing sideways in this photo.
Adding a thin sheet of plasticard underneath served to diffuse the light upwards.
You can see here how important it is to precisely plan where the model will be pinned to the base.

I wanted to do the same thing for Alexia, which was a real exercise in compressing the components as far as possible and making efficient use of the space, as well as soldering in tight spaces.

I think I screwed up the LED angle somehow because the front is much brighter.
Careful planning was required to leave as much empty space as possible.
BOOM! Let there be lights!

Which brings us up to the present. Now that my primer is here I can finally start painting these fellows, but I'm just so painfully slow...

Currently I have plans for another way of lighting up the entire base that I think could work; I have a several models that I'd like to do if it works. I'm also halfway through a Space Marine with a light-up hammer that I've been wanting to do for ages, but I've had some problem with that one so he's on hold for the foreseeable future.

The good news (for me) is that PowerdPlay powered bases start at 40mm and up, and add a bit of height to the base. That means my completely-normal-sized 30mm and only-slightly-high 25mm bases are still somewhat unique. I've actually seen several illuminated models on 25mm bases (or smaller; I've seen an entire WFB army that lit up), so not that unique, though I think I add less height to mine than most (in theory I only need to add about 1mm depending on the model, though my only good 25mm base right now has about 2mm extra). I take some pride from that.