The Derweesh Mark III

I've figured out a small change to the Derweesh Mark I pattern that improves it significantly. I'm calling this one the Derweesh Mark III. I've just finished the first belt made using this new pattern. I used 275 paracord; I wanted a lighter, more elegant belt that would fit through the tighter belt loops that some of my trousers have.

While the belt is thinner, lighter and more flexible that previous belts I've made in 550 paracord, it seems that 275 paracord does not compress like 550 does, so it didn't take as much cord as I expected. The belt is a total of 105cm (41 inches) long, not counting the buckle, I forget how much paracord I actually ended up using but I think it was about 35 metres. I believe it took somewhere around 10 hours to weave. Turns out I made a mistake when I was measuring the jig I used, and the belt is just a little too short for me to actually wear (I'm giving away far too much info about my waist size here...), so I'm going to have to start on a second one soon.


Getting Started
I used 8 spine strands for this belt, which gave me a good width for the buckle I was using. Of course you can always experiment with different numbers of spine strands to get the thickness you want. I was using a jig, so I didn't need to knot the cords around the buckle the way I have in the past, but of course that is always an option. You'll notice that these first pictures feature a different buckle. That's because I figured out an easier way of getting started after I had already begun weaving this one.

First of all, pass the paracord through the belt buckle twice:

Now you can draw the buckle along the entire length of paracord until it's at the halfway mark. Next, take one of the strands and pull a loop back partway through the buckle, giving you two loops on that side. Repeat on the other side for a total of four loops. These are your eight spine strands. The rest of the paracord, that you will be weaving with, are your two working strands.

You can now measure out these eight spine strands to the length that you wish the belt to be. As mentioned before, I used a jig to hold it in place. Here's what my setup looked like:

Step 1: Looping Back
I found that starting with the loop back step worked better, at least the way I had this belt set up. First of all, take one working strand and weave it around two spine strands. That means that you pass it over the spine strands if it came out from beneath the buckle, and vice-versa. In this case the strand was coming out from the top of the buckle, so I passed it underneath the first two spine strands. I then passed it over the next two:

Next loop it back and continue weaving. In my case this meant passing it back under the inner two spine strands and then over the outermost pair of spine strands:

You can tighten it up a bit now:

Finally do the same on the other side and tighten it all up:

Step 2: The Crossover
Next start weaving again, going under two spine strands then over the next two:

Now instead of looping back, leave that working strand for a moment and pick up the other one, again weaving through the first two pairs:

Now here's the tricky part. You're going to pass one working strand around the other, and then back to the same side of the belt that it was before, then continuing weaving. In the last step I passed the working strand from the left side of the belt over the outer-left spine pair and then under the inner-left spine pair, so now I pass it over the other working strand and then back under the belt, going under the inner-right spine pair. I then continue weaving the other working strand in the same way, going over the inner-left spine pair then under the outer-left spine pair:

That last step was probably quite hard to follow, but hopefully the photo will make it clear. When everything's going where it should, you can tighten up the cord:

Step 3: The Boring Bit
You can now continue weaving, simply swapping between crossover and loop back steps. This pattern is a little different from my previous ones in that you can't really have two or more crossover steps in a row, because the way the two cords twist around each other takes up more space and two such steps in a row will start to interfere with each other. At least when using tight cord like the 275 I'm using here; it might actually work better with the more compressible 550 cord I'm used to, I'll have to give it a try later. Here you can see what it looks like after a few more rows:

Step 4: Finishing Up
I discovered when I reached the end of the belt that I had a problem. You see, my spine was made up of four loops, and I was weaving around them. That meant that when I reached the end of the belt, I had nothing holding the weave in place! So I needed to switch to a different pattern so that I was weaving inside the loops instead of around them:

First I passed one working strand through the middle of the outer spine loop, and then again through the middle of the inner spine loop:

After pulling it tight I did the same from the other side:

Next I continued weaving through the centers of the loops with the second working strand, passing over the first:

Finally I continued weaving the first working strand through the centers of the spine loops, passing over the other working strand, and pulled it all tight; this is similar to the crossover step in some of my previous patterns:

I continued this until I reached the end, where I cut the working strands and melted the tips to neaten it all up. The final result is a rather nice belt:

This new pattern has the best holes yet, making it the easiest belt to actually use; overall I'm very happy with it. I think 275 paracord makes for a belt that's significantly lighter and thinner, making it more elegant overall. The last few rows are a touch wider and look a bit different, which is a shame, but hardly a deal-breaker. The problem that I ran into at the end could be solved by using a different configuration of spine strands, or a slightly different weave pattern; for example if I weave around individual spine strands instead of pairs then the problem simply goes away (although the belt would be much wider then).

That's all a case of experimenting to find what works best with the chosen cord and buckle; the important part is the crossover step. Bear in mind that for the crossover to work properly the two working strands have to start off on opposite sides of the belt, i.e. if one working strand is starting off from on top of the buckle, then the other should be starting off from underneath it.

One little tip when it comes to finishing up is to use a leather-working needle. If you don't have one, another thing you can do is keep the weave very, very loose in the last row and then pull it tight at the end; you should be able to fit two strands through a loop that only looked large enough for one if they are loose enough. It's a bit hard to describe, but basically when you pull a strand tight it actually takes more space.

So that's the Mark III. Hopefully my next project will be a new watch strap that I recently had an idea for... assuming I ever get the time. We'll see how that works out I guess.

Card Creator V1.2

Ok, so I've added a couple of features to the Card Creator. This first is a local save feature; this uses HTML5 functionality to save all the data in your browser so you can load it again later. The second is the ability to output all the data as a text string that you can manually save in a text file and reload later; this allows you to save several cards and load an edit them as you please. It's still not perfect, but I think these new features are huge and make it much more functional.

I've also updated the Karchev card using the new version of the card creator. The faction logos look a bit nicer now as I don't have the double-border anymore, but the main change is adding the "Former Jack Marshal" text. I know I said I didn't want to invent any new rules, but I decided that I needed a clarification of how the Jack Marshal rules interact with the Warcaster rules, since on further reflection it's not exactly obvious. I decided that fluff-wise it made sense to have a 2-jack limit when it comes to taking advantage of the Jack Marshal advantage, since it represents him yelling out directions at individual jacks.

I have some ideas for slightly more original Warcasters in my head, the big problem now is the character art. Time to learn how to draw!

Karchev And The Homebrew Card Creator

I was searching the internet for some kind of homebrew card creator, but after a full ten minutes failed to unearth one, I decided to spend two weeks or so writing my own. Because apparently that's my idea of saving time.

Anyway, I'm pretty happy with it, other that the fact that it has one massive flaw: it doesn't save the card. My current plan for fixing this problem involves adding a button that refreshes the page with all the input data embedded in the link. I believe this would allow users to bookmark a created page and come back to it, and also to use online web page to PDF creators to save cards as PDFs.

The card creator and instructions on how to use it are here. So here's my first homebrew card:

Let me talk for a little about the character. So I love the idea of Karchev, and I like some aspects of his fluff (which is more than I can say for most warcasters, sadly), but I haven't had the chance to put him on the table yet and already I've heard a lot of general negativity with regards to his power levels. So this was my attempt at tweaking him a little bit to, let's say, match my preferences.

I tried to keep his most characteristic features intact, and also not to invent any rules or spells or anything (except for his feat of course). I didn't want to make him overpowered, but as he's generally considered one of Khador's weakest casters (at least at 50 points I guess) I figured a bit of an upgrade was acceptable. So let's talk about what's changed.

First of all, I bumped him up  to ARM 20. He's a Khador warjack dammit, he should be ARM 20! Besides Butcher has ARM 18, Karchev have more than a single point more ARM.

Next I gave him CMD 10. He's a living legend and a symbol of Khadoran indomitability dammit, his men would willingly follow him through the gates of Hell itself, he gets CMD 10! Why are we even talking about this?

I added Quick Work to Sunder. Since his "fissure" attack is just him slamming his axe to the ground, I figured that the presence of a squishy little human underneath his axe wouldn't interfere with the process; thus if he kills a model with his axe he can drive the axe right down into the ground and create a fissure. I considered Assault instead, but decided Quick Work was a better approximation. I also gave him Gunfighter to complement the ability. This was more of a fluff thing than anything else, but I think that it helps him deal with infantry, which is good.

I replaced Sidearms with Lash; I think Karchev needs knockdown protection these days with things like the Prime Axiom and Galleon in armies that have access to ranged knockdown. But trying to juggle Sidearms and Tow is a problem. Lash is simpler, always-on, can't be removed with spell hate, and is more focus efficient, so yeah, I figured he deserved it. Hey, if the Battle Mechanic Officer can do it and he's just a MOW, why can't Karchev?

I wanted to give Karchev some infantry support, so I went with Fog of War. You can get some of the effect that Sidearms used to have with it, along with the associated problems, so I figure it fits from that angle, and it does something for his infantry as well without being overpowered. I guess it just seemed like a decent compromise.

I had an idea a short while ago for a way to give jack-casters better focus efficiency without giving them more focus, and that was to make a caster also a jack-marshal. It's not as powerful as Conferred Rage (which some Hordes casters have!), and basically makes up for the loss of the free charge from his feat (which is important  for a jack caster) while also being more versatile the rest of the time, and allowing him to camp higher while his jacks run or take a boosted shot or something. Plus it isn't affected by things like Agonizers, which is a big plus in my book.

Speaking of the feat, I decided the feat was an acceptable time to buff infantry, and made it something that I thought fit the fluff. I also took the opportunity to give him a way to deal with crippled systems on himself and his jacks - kind of a big deal for him, and again, nothing that Hordes can't already do. The feat is limited by his small control area and the fact that it's not a pulse, so I think it's reasonably balanced.

Overall I believe he's more powerful than the original version, but I don't think he's broken or anything. To help balance him out I knocked off a warjack point and took away Ground Zero; plus losing Sidearms cost him a means of defence (hell, he might even be weaker overall without it, I don't really know). At any rate I think he's closer to what I want to play, which is the point of all this really, right?


I will mention that I did have some other ideas for him that I decided not to go with. I considered Fortune as his infantry buff spell as it's versatile but not overpowered. Iron Flesh and Battle Lust seemed a little too much.

I thought about swapping around his arcanatrik turbine so that he has Focus 6 and has to spend one for the movement buff, but decided it wasn't worth changing (and also the current system allows him to gain a focus in some situations when he would otherwise be left high and dry, so that's something).

I wanted to give him a Ret-like forcefield to represent his Warcaster powerfield; fluff-wise warcasters get their additional boxes - which they can repair - from their powerfields; Karchev doesn't have additional boxes or armour and has much more limited repair abilities, so it seemed fair to me.

I would have liked to give him some kind of repair ability, either as a regular action (possibly one that he could use on himself) or better yet, as a battlegroup-wide repair spell.

I considered (and am still tempted by the thought of) giving him an "elite cadre" ability that gives all Greylords in his army Power Booster; but I think Jack-marshal works better (and I wouldn't give him both!). And while it's probably more thematic and unique, I want to try to avoid inventing rules and abilites.


Getting back to the card creator, I will try to implement a saving feature when I have time, but for now I'm leaving it up as it is basically usable.

Kill the Bronzeback, win the game

OK, so the title is supposed to be a Heroes reference, I suppose it's tenuous at best. Anyway. I posted some photos of Alexia and Solomon on a blog I frequent, and for some reason received very little feedback - only three comments in fact. I'm not sure why I didn't get more, but I have a theory: not very many people actually opened the thread. Some 600 people actually viewed the thread, of which three commented. I figure that less than 1% of viewers actually commenting is probably about normal. So why did so few people open it? Perhaps the title I used was boring ("Illuminated Alexia and Thrall" just doesn't capture the imagination I suppose), or perhaps it's because I posted in the middle of the week and not many visit the painting forum on workdays? I don't know, it's just slightly disappointing is all.

Anyway, I finally had a chance to get a game in. I chose my Butcher list with the tweaks I mentioned last time:
Butcher I
-Beast 09
-Kodiak
Nyss
-Valachev
Alexia and the Risen
Kayazy Eliminators

My opponent was trying a new Warlock, and took what I think is a slightly soft list:
Hexeris I
-Bronzeback
-Gladiator
-Drake
Paingiver Beast Handlers
Paingiver Bloodrunners
Nihilators
Mortithurge Willbreaker
Saxon Orrick


Pre-Game:
He has no Agonizer, which is good for me. No Ashes to Ashes is a weight off my mind as well. Nihilators don't scare me as much as the Gatormen (same number of attacks at the same P&S, but no re-rolls, and my Nyss can actually hurt them), and it means potentially more bodies for Alexia. His beasts still out-threat my jacks though, and he has plenty of infantry to screen them with. Also, his feat scares me since it will just erase the Risen, and I'm not in a hurry to expose my Nyss to it either.

We roll a 2015 Steamroller mission with a small rectangular zone and two objectives that contest. He wins the roll and chooses to go first. I pick the side of the table with a forest in the center, just outside the zone, and a house on the right. This was something of a mistake since I then spend the rest of the game wishing the forest wasn't there, and I pretty much had to run the Nyss around the house, which was a little awkward.

He picks the Arcane Wonder objective, and I pick the one that lets me sacrifice models to keep it alive.


Deployment:
He deploys in a central brick. I put Butcher a little to the left so the forest isn't in his way, and the rest of my stuff spreads out along the deployment line. Obviously I put my cheap throwaway Risen on the opposite side from my sacrifice-models-to-keep-it-alive objective. Obviously. Actually there was a reason for that; I didn't want to put my infantry too far forwards since the feat was so bad for them, but I figured I could hold the Risen back and throw Thralls at his objective. The Nyss go on the right where they can run around the house. I had no idea where to put the Eliminators so they end up behind the forest.

He then puts the Bloodrunners and Saxon a little ahead of his army.

Round 1:
He advances everything, with Saxon going into the forest and the Bloodrunners already in the zone. The Bloodrunners get Deathmarch, and Spell Slave goes on the Drake.

The Kodiak gets Fury and the Nyss get Iron Flesh. I run my Jacks forwards... for FREE! The Kodiak does what Torch never could, and runs unobstructed through the forest. For some reason I move Butcher behind the forest. No idea what I was thinking. The Risen shuffle forwards conservatively, I upgrade one to a Thrall who charges at and kills a Bloodrunner. The Nyss run around the house. For lack of any better ideas I run the Eliminators up behind Beast. I make sure not to stand them too close to him so they won't be vulnerable to Obliteration... and instead stand them next to a Risen, who's defense is just as low. Smart.

Round 2:
He charges the Nyss with the Bloodrunners but only one makes distance, and it misses. He also puts one into the Kodiak, but it doesn't break armour. Saxon remembers that the Nyss ignore forests, and backs up a bit. A Nihilator kills the Thrall. The Drake moves up and sprays a Risen, then he arcs Obliteration through it onto the Thrall standing next to Alexia and my Eliminators. Sigh. Fortunately he rolled low, and (even with Puppet Strings) Alexia and one Eliminator survived. I'm not entirely sure why, but he moves the Bronzeback over to my left. Unfortunately his Nihilators are in the way, and he has to trample over two of them to get there. Luckily one toughs.

I debate charging Beast at his beasts, but after discussing it we decide I'm just out. I can't afford to leave his drake alive, however, so I have to send beast at him. I realise that I'm never going to be able to force him to bring his heavies into my charge range, and he already has the zone, so I decide that I'm going to have to use the Kodiak as bait. I give each jack 2 focus and upkeep my spells. Beast charges the Drake, making sure to keep as far from the other warbeasts as possible, but misses his second attack and leaves it on two health. The surviving Eliminator manages to finish it off however, and uses her second attack to stab a Nihilitor. He toughs, but she ignores him and side-steps into a Beast Handler.

The Kodiak shuffles forwards to make sure he's in the Bronzeback's charge range ([ArnieVoice]I'm here! Come get me![/ArnieVoice]), and throws one Bloodrunner at another, killing both. Butcher walks back around the forest to be in a position to have the best chance of taking out anything that kills the Kodiak, and I think misses a Nihilator with his Blunderbuss.

Alexia uses the Eliminator's corpse to spawn a Risen next to the Kodiak, then turns him into a Thrall. Her Risen just shuffle around aimlessly. The Thrall charges and kills a Bloodrunner thanks to the backstrike bonus. The Nyss then move around, getting the aiming bonus where possible, and finish off the Bloodrunners with ranged attacks. I make sure to put as many models as I can near my objective, as I don't have anything in the zone and I think I'm going to have to try to keep it alive next turn.

Round 3:
He puts two Beast Handlers into the Eliminator but can't kill her. The Nihilators get Deathmarch and Pathfinder from Orrick, and charge my Nyss, killing a couple (and the Thrall). The Bronzeback ignores my delicious looking Kodiak and charges the objective, killing it easily and using beat-back to move a bit farther away. I don't sacrifice any Nyss to keep it alive; I would run out models long before he runs out of attacks. He scores a point for the objective and a point for controlling the zone.

It occurs to me that I might be able to kill his Beast Handlers this turn, and his Bronzeback looks to be in range of the Kodiak, so I decide to go for it. The Kodiak gets three focus, Beast gets one, the rest goes to upkeeps. The Eliminator runs through everything and charges one of the rear Beast Handlers. She kills it and side-steps into the other, but misses. Well, so much for that idea; it's not worth putting too much effort into the other three anymore, so Beast just walks up and kills another with a boosted attack - I'm not sure if whether he's in walking range of the Gladiator or not, but since he can't charge with the objective in the way I decide to take my chances. The surviving Beast Handlers then fail their command check! Ouch, unlucky for him.

The Nyss all stand still and Zephyr, then proceed to shoot most of his Nihilators to death. Butcher feats and misses a Nihilator again. The Kodiak, he path now clear, charges the Bronzeback. Two initials and a headbutt later and the mighty Titan is toppled.

I just realised that I forgot to pay for the charge. Oh well, turns out I had focus to spare.

After the Nyss has completed their activations my Opponent realised that he could have used Counter Charge to move his Bronzeback to a safer location. It would have been a very different game if he had! Anyway, the Risen shuffle around and I end my turn.

Round 4:
So my opponent has very little infantry left and his Beast Handlers can't do anything this turn. I have two untouched jacks and most of my Nyss, and an Eliminator running amuck in his back line. He might be able to kill a jack with the Gladiator, but at only P&S 16 it's far from a sure thing. He could slam or Beat-back the Kodiak out of the zone, kill the only contesting Risen, and dominate up to 4, but the next turn he loses what's left of his infantry and probably his Warlock. So after some discussion, he decides that his only realistic chance of winning is to kill Butcher.

The Nihilators use their Vengeance move to get in range. He advances Hexeris and boosts an Obliteration into the Butcher; I also convince him to feat, so the Risen that he kills can turn around and attack Butcher before they die. One hits; but at dice-11 damage it does nothing. Somehow Alexia actually survives the blast! The remaining Nihilators then charge and leave Butcher on 4 health, at which point he concedes. My opponent, not the Butcher.

Postmortem:
That's my first win in a while! I got lucky though; I had some good dice and my opponent made some mistakes - if he had thought to charge the Bronzeback to safety it would have been a completely different game. Seriously, that model is crazy; Beat-back and Counter Charge give it so much threat, and now I realise that it can use counter-charge for hit-and-run tactics as well! I'll have to keep an eye out for that in the future.

My opponent seemed to have a lot of respect for the Eliminators; so much so that he lost the Drake just trying to get it close enough to arc a spell through it. To be honest I think that if he had done things differently he probably could have killed them with a boosted spray instead. I got lucky there; I just couldn't seem to figure out where to put them, not until the battle lines closed anyway. I'll need to practice more with them, but I think they solve a lot of problems for me; taking out troublesome support models, blocking movement shenanigans like Admonition, etc. Still, I rather miss having the MOW Kovnik there. I think he'll see play time when I get around to trying Butcher 2 though.

So yeah, I'm liking this list. I think it covers a lot of bases. I still have to be very careful with it since my jacks have such short threat range and Iron Flesh Nyss can be killed en-masse by the right tech, but with Alexia is good for screening them and if I lose them then she can potentially take out a heavy herself, as can the Butcher, so I'm not completely dependent on my heavies. Valachev actually gives the Nyss a great accuracy buff, and also a damage buff via the Butcher's feat. The Eliminators solve problems; along with spontaneous back-striking Thralls they give my list a mobile threat that can deal with troublesome models. And Butcher himself survived an assassination attempt there that not many casters would have.

So every time I play a game I think back afterwards to what I could have done better, but I still find myself at a complete loss as to what to do in the opening moves. Once the lines have closed a bit and I know that my models are in range I actually find it easier to make decisions (I'm not saying I make good ones...), it's just those early turns when I'm not sure which models can get where and what forces I should commit to what enemy models.

I really need to play more games; I'm not going to get better in a hurry playing once a month. Hopefully I'll be able to play more regularly in the future.

You know a swamp is evil when it glows green!

I had hoped to finish these two a few months ago, but I've been very busy and suffered some setbacks (plus that last model took FOREVER), so it took me a lot longer than I'd hoped. My goal was to finish them - and another couple of models - before the Powered Play guys put out their new powered bases in March, so at least I've managed half that goal. Anyway, I give you Alexia and a Thrall:

And now for the important bit:

Green was obviously a big part of the colour scheme, I decided my second colour would be purple. This was partially because I thought it would work well with the green, partially because I wanted to use it for the Thrall, partially because I'm just on a sort of a purple kick right now, and I think partially because the model reminds me so much of this:

I used two different shades of purple for her clothes (Liche Purple and Warlock Purple), then gave them the same wash (Leviathan Purple) to tie them together. While I'm happy with how the colours turned out, overall her clothes didn't have much of the usual sculpted folds that make detailing cloth much easier; my el-cheapo method of washes and drybrushes did not give good results here, but after trying a couple of different things I decided this was good enough.

While the shading is a little flatter than I would like, and her eyes didn't quite turn out as I'd hoped, I think that this is the best face I've painted so far. I'm quite happy with it overall. The lips might look a little bit puffy up close, but that's mostly just the model itself. I mixed Elf Flesh with Warlock Purple to try to get a colour that would not clash with her skin or clothes, which I think worked quite well.

The glow on the sword was done with a couple of quick drybrushes and a some watered down white, but it came out looking better than I expected and is one of the highlights of the model in my eyes.

I've already posted about the base, but I might as well recap a little here. The base uses a clear resin insert from CoolMiniOrNot's Groundwerks series. I cut along the base topper that comes with Alexia and filed the bottom a little to reduce the height, then glued it to the resin base insert.

I then cut away the top of the plastic base where needed and carefully installed the components in the base. The idea was not to point the LEDs upwards, but to leave an empty space surrounded with white underneath the clear resin to allow the light to diffuse and illuminate the whole area. I drybrushed light green at the bottom of the resin to further diffuse the light.

Needless to say I had to work very slowly and carefully to fit the components while leaving enough room for the LED to light up as much of the resin as possible. While I tried to solder components before gluing them in, there were a couple of things that just had to be soldered in place; as a result I managed to melt part of the rim (as you can see in top right of the above photo), and had to repair it with greenstuff later. Another complication was that I wanted to pin Alexia to the base through both legs, so I had to work around where the pins would go. I then carefully blended Alexia's base to the resin with greenstuff such that there was no exposed resin that wasn't picking up the light.

I think the rear LED ended up a little mis-aligned, as the front part of the base ended up looking much brighter than the rear, but it's better this way than the opposite.

The second model was the Thrall. I absolutely love this model; it's by far my favorite Undead miniature. In fact I bought this guy a long time before I actually bought Alexia, just to paint him. I call him Solomon.

An of course, all lit up:

Comparing him to the Risen, I imagine in my head that he was no common soldier, but an ancient and powerful warrior-king who has retained some of his dignity and bearing. That's actually quite a fancy sword and armour when you think about it, after all. I decided that I wanted to paint him up to be quite ornate and impressive, rather than decrepit, so I went for black and bronze on his armour. As discussed I thought purple would work well with the green, but I also thought it fitting for him since it's considered a royal colour.

I still wanted him to show some wear and tear, so I painted all the steel surfaces with orange then drybrushed them with Boltgun Metal to give them a hint of rust. The sword was given a feathering of chainmail along the edge to give it a scratched look. This was my first attempt at verdigris for the bronze, I mixed together some blues and greens to get a colour that I liked then watered it down and tried to apply it randomly. I considered drybrushing some bronze or even gold on top but ended up skipping that step as I was afraid it wouldn't look good. Finally I applied some weathering to the black armour. The ground, bone, leather and bronze were shaded using Quickshade Strong Tone (ditto for Alexia btw).

The base was another CoolMiniOrNot Groundwerks clear resin insert. This one was easier to do as there was much less fitting and blending involved, and also the more limited "swamp" area meant a single LED and diffusion space, making the insides much easier to put together.

You can actually see the green drybrushing on the resin surface.

Here you see the plasticard piece that was used to diffuse the light.

You can see here where the pins come through the plasticard.

Overall I do like how they came out. There's actually still a little bit of work left to do: namely I want to add some gloss varnish to the swamp areas and the gem in the sword, but I'll get around to that. I do have a second Thrall model that came with Alexia's unit; I would like to give him a similar base, but I just don't know when I'll have the time. I'll have to convert him a little bit so he doesn't quite look the same of course. Then there's 20 Risen models to paint (well, 21 - seems they accidentally gave me one extra). Obviously there is NO WAY I'm giving them all lit bases!